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In a casino packed with celebrity chefs that include Wolfgang Puck and Bobby Flay, Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa's latest renowned chef - Stephen Kalt - is making a name for himself with Fornelletto Cucina Italiana, which may be the busiest restaurant in the casino this summer.

"I think Borgata decided it wanted a balance," says Kalt, who has appeared regularly on "Martha Stewart Living" and served as executive chef of Corsa Cucina at Wynn Las Vegas. "Obviously, Wolfgang is a legend and a brand. Bobby is nearly a legend and certainly a brand. But with me, they wanted a slightly different chef … someone who clearly puts it on the plate. I may not have their celebrity status, but I deliver day to day at a very high level, and I am certainly here and will be here more than Bobby, Wolfgang and Michael Mina (of Seablue)."

Diners are flocking to Kalt's new restaurant located in the former Ombra space for one good reason: He knows how to deliver classic Italian cuisine with enough modern flair to equally satisfy traditionalists and foodies looking for new challenges.

Most importantly, Fornelletto encourages people to share and have fun. Half of the menu features a Mozzarella and Buratta Bar (see sidebar), pizzas and small Italian plates that include avocado crostini ($10) with sun-dried tomatoes, Moroccan lemon and chives; Zucchini Blossoms ($14) filled with goat cheese, avocado and mint; and Fritelle di Baccala ($12), deep-fried balls filled with fish and served on an aioli and parsley puree.

"To me, ordering a few things, putting them in the center of the table to share with a big bottle of wine is the way to go," Kalt says. "It's a wonderful place to have that kind of experience where you can eat, drink and talk and share food. I try to keep the food pretty straightforward; it's simple regional cooking with a few twists, and people are responding well."

Kalt is enthused that many diners are being a little adventurous with his favorite dishes: fried rabbit ($34) with chestnut honey mustard, whipped potatoes and gravy; whole Orata ($43) grilled or salt-baked with spaghettini, garlic, anchovy, arugula pesto, salsa verde and oven-dried tomato; and the to-die-for veal "osso bucco" ravioli ($28) with port wine reduction and parmesan reggiano.

"I think the people that come to Borgata represent a different level of customer," Kalt says. "If we do 700 dinners on a Saturday, and we sell 60 parmesans, that's OK because that means there are many others coming with an open mind. They are eating fried rabbit and loving it. One thing I did here was to go more classical as opposed to modern, so I haven't really experimented to see how far we can stretch the envelope. But as long as people are coming in enjoying top-quality food, that's OK by me."

That accessibility is something Kalt wants to stress, noting that chicken parmesan ($24), potato gnocchi gorgonzola ($27), and Rib Steak Florentine ($52) will please anyone who loves Italian food and are brought to another level with homemade pasta, made-from-scratch sauces and good cuts of meat.

"I want this restaurant to be something that people enjoy and keep coming back for," Kalt says. "So we gave them a range of prices and a range of options so you can come in and enjoy a drink and an appetizer or a full-course dinner with a giant bottle of wine. It's a restaurant for everyone."

Fornelletto Cucina Italiana

WHERE: Borgata Hotel Casino & Spa, Atlantic City

WHEN: Open 5 to 11 p.m. Sundays, Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays, 5 p.m. to midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Hours may change seasonally.

HOW MUCH: Mozzarella bar ranges $12 to $17; meats and cheeses $8 to $25; chilled antipasta $7 to $21; hot antipasta $12 to $14; pizza $15 to $19; pasta $21 to $44; Parmigiana Americana $24 to $39; fish $34 to $43; meats $24 to $52; sides $7 to $10; desserts $9.

SERVICES: Major credit cards accepted. Liquor license. Disabled access via elevator from main casino floor. Eat in. No kids menu. Reservations strongly suggested. No smoking.

MORE INFO: Call 866-MY-BORGATA or go to www.theborgata.com.

BETWEEN YOU AND ME: For the ultimate indulgence, try the Aragosta Arrosto ($44), which offers homemade fettuccine tossed in a roasted lobster ragu with chunks of tender lobster.

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