People of various faiths and cultural backgrounds know the story of Hanukkah's origins, how just a tiny amount of oil miraculously burned for eight days. In the spirit of that story, Hanukkah is celebrated in part by eating foods fried in oil, such as latkes and doughnuts.

But in much of the world, Hanukkah also is celebrated by eating salty cheeses. And for that, there is an equally fascinating story.

The short version goes something like this: Around

2 B.C., a Jewish widow saved her people by ingratiating herself with an enemy general, plying him with salty cakes of cheese, then wine to quench the thirst it brought. When he fell into a drunken stupor, she lopped off his head with his own sword.

When this story became associated with Hanukkah is unclear. Jewish cookbook author Joan Nathan says Hanukkah likely was originally celebrated around the winter solstice and the role of oil was related to the light it created during this darkest time of year.

Olive oil became an important part of this "festival of lights" and the foods eaten during the celebration were a nod to this, as was the story of the miraculous and essential oil. Latkes, or pancakes fried in oil, were initially made of eggs and flour or sometimes cheese, and this could be when the story of the salty cheese cakes took off.

Dennis Wasko, a kosher chef from Chicago, likes to make a Sephardic-style cheese fritter called bunuelos de queso - with eggs, flour and a salty dry cheese such as Greek mizithra, ricotta salata or even farmer's cheese. The mixture is formed into little balls or pancakes, then fried in oil and drizzled with honey.

Roman Cheesecake with Orange-Scented Honey

Ingredients:

•6 fresh bay leaves

•2 large eggs, beaten

•1 teaspoon vanilla extract

•Grated zest of 2 oranges, divided

•1 1/2 cups whole milk ricotta

•1/2 cup all-purpose flour

•1/3 cup orange blossom honey

•1 tablespoon poppy seeds

Directions:

Heat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and arrange bay leaves in the center of the parchment inan 8-inch circular pattern.

Beat together the eggs, vanilla and half of the orange zest. Beat in the ricotta, then the flour. The mixture should form a thick batter. Scoop the batter onto the arranged bay leaves on the prepared baking sheet. Use a silicone spatula or the back of a spoon to spread the batter into an 8-inch circle over the bay leaves.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until golden and puffy.

Meanwhile, in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, combine the honey and remaining orange zest. Heat for several minutes until thin and warmed.

When the cake is done baking, use a wooden skewer to poke holes in the top. Drizzle a third of the warmed honey over the cake, letting it soak into the surface.

Place a serving plate over the cake, then overturn so the cake is on the plate. Use the skewer to poke holes in the new surface, then drizzle the rest of the honey over the cake.

Let the cheesecake rest 30 minutes to allow the honey to soak in. Sprinkle with poppy seeds, then cut into wedges and serve warm or at room temperature.

Servings: 6