I've always thought of Father's Day as the kickoff of serious grilling season. If you don't already grill, this is your opportunity to take the tongs from dad and give it a try with a recipe that every man loves - hot wings.

Wings rarely are made at home because they are associated with deep frying, something most home cooks don't want to bother with. But in truth, they are so much better grilled. When you grill them, the meat is tender and juicy and the burnished skin is crisp, not flabby.

The best part is that the recipe is so simple, you hardly need a "recipe."

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Over the years I've played with different barbecue sauces, but recently was won over by a molasses-based barbecue sauce from Weber. Molasses is a smart change from corn syrup-based sauces.

In traditional deep-fry chicken wing recipes, the meat is cooked, then tossed with sauce. This recipe keeps that basic approach, but substitutes the grill for the fryer. Use the hot sauce to marinate the chicken before cooking.

No grill handy? These wings also can be cooked on a rimmed baking sheet fitted with a metal rack. Roast them for 30 minutes at 400 F, then toss them with the barbecue-honey sauce and roast for another 20 to 25 minutes.

I use indirect heat to grill the wings slowly. This cooks the dark meat nice and slowly, and renders the fat in the skin, leaving a nice crisp wing. When they are almost done, I take them off the grill and toss them with a mixture of honey and barbecue sauce and put them back on the grill to set the glaze and caramelize.

The end result is a crispy yet slightly sticky wing with an addictively sweet heat.

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