Wine of the week

2004 Terre de' Trinci Sagrantino di Montefalco 'Ugolino'

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Region: Umbria, Italy

Price: $45 to $60

Style: Robust and full-bodied

What it goes with: Short ribs, pork roast and chops, braised meats

Montefalco is a vertiginous hill town in Umbria famous for Sagrantino di Montefalco, a full-bodied red made from the sagrantino grape. The 2004 Ugolino from Terre de' Trinci is stupendous, a deep-flavored, fleshy sagrantino lush with the tastes of blackberry and earth. Its tannins are big, but softened, and it has a finish that just doesn't let go. It's a big, gentle bear of a wine.

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