Wine of the Week

2009 Chateau des Jacques Moulin-a-Vent

Price: About $20

Style: Complex and structured

What it goes with: Roast chicken, salmon, sausages and stews.

This year's Beaujolais nouveau is about to be sprung on the public. While the festivities are fun, there's more to Beaujolais than Beaujolais nouveau.

Here's one from the stellar 2009 vintage that has all the right stuff - complexity, finesse and structure, and a taste of earth and blackberries. Though it's 100 percent gamay, the terroir comes through so clearly that if you tasted this blind, you might think it's a Burgundy. This one's a beauty.