EL ORIENTE, Ecuador - This is one rain forest the world has saved.
After donors around the globe pledged $116 million by the December 2011 deadline to prevent oil drilling in the biologically fragile Yasuni National Park, the Ecuadorian government agreed to leave it alone. There will be no roads, drilling or pipelines this year.
Instead, tourists can continue to witness the damp glory of the region's tangled forests and the riotous color of even the smallest frog and butterfly.
"Everyone on Earth should see the rain forest if they want to. It is precious; it is our lifeline to survival," says Robyn Burnham, an associate professor at the University of Michigan. "Ecotourism may help if it can be strictly controlled."
Americans can fly to South America and stay at a lodge deep in the Amazon for less than $3,000 - cheap when compared with other international journeys.
"If everyone understood our connection to it at an organic level," Burnham says, "We might be more willing as humans to sacrifice our comfort to save other species."
The sounds are a symphony, an orchestra, a hallelujah chorus of nature. The forest is a primeval tangle of canopy and undergrowth. Within the first two hours here, I see monkeys, two kinds of toucan, a falcon and songbirds galore.
At night, visitors to La Selva Amazon Ecolodge sleep in small huts surrounded by mosquito nets. It's like camp, only dinner is cooked by a French chef and one late afternoon, there's a strange hooting bird call in the trees.
"It's a motmot," says naturalist Daniel King, as if describing a sparrow or pigeon, no big deal.
The call of the motmot is the coolest thing. So is catching a piranha. So is seeing the grand and lush South American Amazon for yourself.
The Amazon is a region, not just a river. A cradle of Earth's best treasures, the rain forest comprises about 2.3 million square miles of the continent from Ecuador and Peru to Brazil's Atlantic coast. The Amazon I have come to see is the small, remote version. This lodge is on the Napo River, an Amazon River tributary in eastern Ecuador.
To get here, you take a 30-minute flight over the Andes from Ecuador's capital city, Quito. Then you board a small motorized canoe for a couple hours. Then walk 15 minutes through the rain forest. Then ride 20 more minutes in a paddle canoe across a small lake to the lodge.
The huts have electricity and hot showers. But no cell phone, no TV, no Internet. Eclectic tourists from around the world come here. It is incredibly restful, quiet, warm, rainy and damp. Your hair curls. Your skin plumps. Your clothes get moist. Your electronics need to be in Ziploc bags.
When you go on a hike, you must wear big rubber boots. Paths can be gloppy with mud. There are big insects. Exotic plants. Slippery rocks. Snakes. Strange noises.
Although it is exotic, La Selva is one of several surprisingly affordable ecolodges on the Napo River, and it revels in its remote location. All of these lodges are near the incredible Yasuni National Park, often regarded as the most ecologically diverse place on Earth.
Ecuador's ecolodges generally follow similar schedules - wake at 5:30 a.m., breakfast at 6. There are long hikes, generous meals, free time, bird-viewing tower climbs, canoe tours and, if you are lucky, a chance to meet local people. The weather is generally cloudy, punctuated by heavy downpours alternating with periods of bright sunshine. At about 80 degrees year round, it is like visiting a terrarium.
It is remote, but not quiet. Outside is the croaking and chirping of frogs, bugs, night birds, bats and other critters. One night, I suddenly jolt awake, thinking I hear a beeping alarm. Instead it is an insect's call: "Brrr! Brrr! Brrr!"
There are piranhas here, the sexiest and toothiest animal of the Amazon. Most of what you read about piranhas is blatant exaggeration and hype, King says. They don't attack people - unless they are already dead or bleeding. They have been known to attack cattle. And yes, they do gnaw bones until they are bare of flesh.
And, well, yes, red-bellied piranhas do tend to swarm. But they certainly won't bother swimmers, he says. I notice nobody is swimming off the dock at La Selva.
When you fish for piranha, you use a regular line, hook and chunks of raw beef. They can nibble the beef off in 2 bites and avoid the hook, but try hard and you may entice one to chomp down too hard.
Ecuador gets about 227,000 American visitors per year - many of whom rush straight to the Galapagos Islands and never see the Amazon at all.
It's a shame. Eastern Ecuador's El Oriente region is where many forces collide - modern oil drillers, eco-defenders, lush natural beauty, stunning animals and stubbornly traditional native people. Out here, the average tourist will not see towns because there aren't any. They also won't see the Waorani people, who shun contact with modern life. They ordinarily won't even see the more modern Quichua people, for they are spread out along the Napo, hidden.
The Condo family of three generations lives together a short walk from the river, but beyond view. Their house is in a clearing. It has a wide-open platform kitchen under a thatched roof and an attached room for sleeping.
The Condos are Quichua, who are most in contact with the world. Many are naturalist guides for the ecolodges.
Still, they spin their own thread, sew their own nets, weave their own baskets, cook over an open fire, wash their clothes in the river, drink rainwater and live under a thatched roof open to the elements. The children have pets - dogs that scurry under the house, and three baby tanagers, frail chirping little black-and-white things that live in a basket. A 2-year- old toddles around with a sharp knife and seems to know how to use it. The family buys rice, noodles and eggs but grows or forages for other food.
It's a hard life. It's a patient life. Clothes hung on the line are left out, sometimes for days, until the sun finally comes out long enough to dry them. But it is the life they choose, despite being bombarded with do-gooder organizations aiming to modernize their world.
The Condos live just down the river from Yasuni National Park's riverbank clay licks, where thousands of parrots congregate daily to eat mineral-laden clay. They don't always show up, leaving some tourists feeling shortchanged, as if a lodge can orchestrate nature like a virtual reality concert. But we're in luck. Hundreds of green bodies stand out like florescent targets on the beige clay walls. They squawk. They flutter. They gnaw at the clay. It's happy hour at Moe's Bar.
Suddenly, the parrots fly away in a giant green-winged cloud. Then it pours! The humans huddle under ponchos in an open dugout canoe. Instead of feeling anxious, I feel exhilarated. The rain pounds on my head and runs off the poncho. I clutch my camera tight in its plastic bag close to my body. I close my eyes and feel the rivulets streaming down into my boots. Rain is what makes the Ecuadorian Amazon so grand and haunting, so lush and fragile.
In July, La Selva will debut a whole new look that Columbus Group promises will still be true to its rustic roots but offer more luxurious touches - Wi-Fi, newer, more upscale huts, new boats, new kayaks.
"We want to keep the same type of construction, but we are adding bigger cabins and more comfortable cabins," says manager Yoyi Minaya. "We are going to be the best ecolodge. We want to be more integrated with the community. The people who come, it's a mix of everybody. We won't change that philosophy."
It is possible to see the Amazon by boat. But staying put in one place brings one closer to the soul of the rain forest, she says.
"When you stay on land, you hear the noises at night, the sound of the birds," Minaya says. "That is the magic of the jungle - the smells, the sounds of the place."
Like the motmot. And the parrots. And the rain. And the piranhas silently swarming.
IF YOU GO:
Booking: Latin Destinations (latindestinations.com, 866-645-2846), can arrange your flights, hotels, transfers and tours. Or book directly with the ecolodges, which will arrange all travel from Quito to the lodge.
People traveling to the Galapagos Islands can ask their tour company about an add-on to the Amazon.
Cost: Two people traveling together should plan to pay about $2,800-$3,000 per person for a week's trip, which includes airfare, lodging in Quito and at the lodge, meals, transfers and tours.
Lodges: La Selva Amazon Ecolodge is shut for major upgrades through June, but will reopen in July (laselvajunglelodge.com, 866-687-3109). Or try the nearby well-regarded Sacha Lodge (sachalodge.com, 800-706-2215) or Napo Wildlife Center (napowildlifecenter.com, 866-750-0830). Lodges include meals and tours.
Itinerary: I flew via United into Quito and stayed two nights for sightseeing, flew via AeroGal to La Selva for three nights, then returned to Quito for one night.
Packing: Lodges will give you packing lists. They provide rubber boots. Bring a raincoat and a good rain poncho in case of downpours. Bring plenty of socks to wear under your boots. Pack all clothes in Ziploc bags to keep them away from the damp. Pack bug spray, sunscreen, hat, small flashlight, clock, lightweight long pants and shirts, binoculars.
Health: No mandatory immunizations needed here, but be up-to-date on your booster shots. The yellow fever vaccine is recommended.